Aconcagua (“The Sentinel of Stone 6962m), is the highest mountain outside of Asia. It is part of the fame 7 Summits and the highest peak of the American Continent. The mountain and its surroundings, known as the Aconcagua Provincial Park, are part of the Andes Mountain Range and located in western Argentina, near the Chile border.
The mountain has a number of glaciers. The most well-known is the north-eastern or Polish Glacier, which is the technical route of ascent. Except for the Polish Glacier route, Aconcagua is arguably the highest non-technical mountain in the world. The other two routes - the normal route and False Polish Glacier Traverse route (which we will be doing) do not require ropes. While the climb on the non technical routes do not require rope or technical skills, climbing Aconcagua is not to be underestimated. especially the physical demand and the harsh weather conditions. Multiple casualties occur ever. The altitude and extreme weather pattern are two main challenges.
Experience in climbing 6000m mountains and crampons skills are essential. Most of the climb from the base camp onward to the higher camps and summit is on scree, snow and ice terrain in extreme cold weather of -10 to -35 °C. You are also expected to do load ferry of your personal gear, team equipment and food for the higher camps with a backpack load 15-20kg.
We will be doing the False Polish Glacier Traverse which is a combo of the non technical part of the Polish Traverse Route and the Normal Route. Crossing through the beautiful Vacas Valley to reach the base camp, it is known to be more scenic and less crowded than the Normal Route.
At a Glance:
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Itinerary:
Arrive in El Plumerillo International Airport, Mendoza, Argentina.
Sleep: Hotel in Mendoza
We will complete the necessary permit processes, then a private bus is arranged to travel to Penitentes. In penitents we will organize our bagging.
Sleep: Hotel in Penitentes.
Early morning, we will drive 15 minutes to Punta de Vacas, where we will begin our 48km long trek to Plaza Argentina (4206 m.), which is Base Camp for our Aconcagua expedition.At the end of the fourth day, east face of Aconcagua will be revealed.
Sleep: Camp
This day we will reach the Base Camp by crossing Vacas River, and climbing the Relinchos valley. Our load carrying mules will bid us farewell from this point on.
Sleep: Camp
This day is a rest day. We get used to high altitudes and enjoy beautiful terrain up here.
Sleep: Camp
We will head out from base camp and reach the Camp 1 with the loads of supplies. Camp 1 is located at 4970m. We will then return back to Base Camp for the camping, this ensures good acclimatization.
Sleep: Camp
This day is a rest day. We acclimatize even more in high altitudes and enjoy beautiful terrain.
Sleep: Camp
We will move to Camp 1 in the early morning. We will not rush for the ascent. After reaching camp 1, we will start building camps for overnight.
Sleep: Camp
We will head out from camp 1 and reach the Camp 2 or called Camp Guanacos with the loads of supplies. Camp 2 is located at 5548m. Sensational views can be seen from this camp. We will then return back to Camp 1 for the camping, this ensures good acclimatization.
Sleep: Camp
This day is a rest day. We get used to high altitudes, we will do nothing more than enjoying views from Camp 1.
Sleep: Camp
We’ll carry remaining weight and move to Camp 2. After reaching camp 2, we will build our tents and prepare ourselves for overnight.
Sleep: Camp
We will head out from camp 2 and reach the Camp 3 or called Camp Guanacos with the loads of supplies. Camp 3 is located at 5945m. We will then return back to Camp 2 for the camping, this ensures good acclimatization.
Sleep: Camp
This day is a rest day. We get used to high altitudes, we will do nothing more than enjoying views from Camp 1. However, we will closely monitor the weather behaviour and plan for days to come.
Sleep: Camp
We’ll carry remaining weight and move to Camp 3. After reaching camp 3, we will build our tents and prepare ourselves for overnight. While moving to camp 3, we will see splendid views of Polish Glacier and west side of the Aconcagua. Trekking camp 2 to camp 3 is relatively short. We will have enough rest before the summit day.
Sleep: Camp
Summit day starts very early in the morning. We will take North Ridge to Refugio Independencia which elevates at around 6520m. We will then cross west face and reach Canaleta, canaleta leads us to the edge of summit. Reaching the top we will see amazing views of south American mountains. The view from Aconcagua is simply breath-taking.
Sleep: Camp
This day involves a 1830m. descent into the Base camp.
Sleep: Camp
We will trek to Horcones from Base camp. Continuing the journey we will arrive in Penitentes, where we will stay overnight and enjoy.
Sleep: Hotel in Penitentes
We will return back to Mendoza from Penitentes.
Sleep: Hotel in Mendoza
We build two days as “backup days” into our schedule.
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